In the Activewear and Apparel industry, “merch” and “bespoke apparel” are two distinct concepts that cater to very different audiences, purposes, and experiences. While both categories serve the need for wearable items, they vary significantly in terms of production, design, cost, performance, exclusivity, and purpose. Understanding these differences can help consumers make informed decisions and businesses tailor their offerings effectively.
1. Definition and Purpose
Merchandise (Merch):
Merch refers to pre-designed clothing and accessories that are mass-produced and often associated with a brand, artist, or organisation. The primary purpose of merch is to promote or represent a specific event, or organisation. It is commonly used as a marketing tool or a means to build fan loyalty. For example, band t-shirts, corporate-branded hoodies, or influencer-designed caps fall under the category of merch.
Merch is now being marketed by suppliers as a cost-effective way to develop a collection of garments that entrepreneurs can use to launch a brand. This isn’t how established brands developed their clothing and therefore merch should NEVER be used to launch a brand that principally sells apparel.
Merch is also known as “White Label Goods”
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke apparel, on the other hand, is custom-made clothing crafted to fit a brands specific measurements, preferences, and requirements. The term “bespoke” originates from Savile Row in London, where bespoke tailoring has long been synonymous with personalised luxury. Bespoke Activewear apparel is all about exclusivity and craftsmanship, offering customers a one-of-a-kind product that reflects their unique style, values and performance requirements.
Every established Activewear designs and develops their own bespoke sportswear and NEVER use Merch to cut corners and deliver a simple solution. Even a simple printed T shirt of hoody will be designed and developed to deliver the performance and quality the brand requires.
Ask yourself, would Gymshark, Nike or LuluLemon logo up some white label merch?
2. Design Process
Merch:
The design process for merch typically starts with a supplier, logo, or graphic concept. Designers create templates that are then applied to a variety of simple clothing items such as t-shirts, hoodies, or caps. Since merch is mass-produced, the focus is on appealing to a broad audience rather than focussing on high quality or adding performance benefits.
Merch is also a competitive market with lots of suppliers chasing orders, so price is driven down to make it competitive. The lower the price, the lower the quality and performance of the item.
Merch designs are often straightforward, with an emphasis on bold graphics, slogans, or logos that make the merchandise instantly recognisable. Fabrics and components will generally be lower quality than branded activewear.
Bespoke Apparel:
In bespoke activewear clothing, the design process is far more intricate and personalised. It begins with a consultation between the client (brand) and the designer. The brands preferences, values, style, features, colour, and performance are discussed in detail.
Multiple fittings are conducted to ensure the garment fits perfectly and sometimes the garment is tested to guarantee it performs. From fabric selection to stitching techniques, every detail is meticulously planned and specified to create a unique piece. The emphasis is on craftsmanship, precision, and individual expression.
3. Production Method
Merch:
Merch is produced in bulk using standardised sizes and materials. Factories utilise automated or semi-automated processes to maximise efficiency and costs. The use of screen printing, embroidery, or heat transfers is common to replicate designs on hundreds or thousands of items. The focus is on uniformity and scalability.
The fabrics and components will be of a low quality as the lifespan of merch is usually quite short and fits a need to supply customers with a memento rather than a piece of apparel that will be used on a regular basis.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke apparel has detailed attention to every stitch method, seam, and finish. The design, sourcing of components and fabrics and features are meticulously chosen to deliver the required quality consumers require.
Every component that makes the garment is considered to deliver the needs of the brand and the athlete. Quality is built into every component based on the required prioce point and market position of the brand.
4. Cost
Merch:
Merch is generally affordable, as it is designed for mass consumption. The cost per item decreases significantly when produced in large quantities. Pricing typically depends on the quality of materials and the complexity of the design, but it remains accessible to most consumers. Merch is often sold at a big markup to generate revenue for brands or artists.
The cost of merch is usually lower than creating bespoke activewear, however you get what you pay for. Merch will be produced in huge volumes using lower quality fabrics, trims and components that won’t last as long as bespoke fabrics and trims a brand would select to deliver high quality apparel.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke clothing is tailored to the brands requirements and the product is priced accordingly. The cost reflects the level of craftsmanship, the quality of materials, and the time invested in creating the garment. Clients are paying for exclusivity and personalisation, making bespoke apparel significantly more expensive than low quality merch.
5. Audience and Market
Merch:
The target audience for merch is usually fans, teams, clubs, uniforms or followers of a particular brand, artist, or organisation. Merch serves as a tangible connection to the entity it represents. For example, concert-goers might purchase a band’s t-shirt as a souvenir, or sports fans might buy jerseys to show their team loyalty. Merch appeals to a broad demographic, from teenagers to adults.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke activewear apparel caters to a specific, targeted audience that values the brand quality, style and values. This market includes all activewear brands that need to define their own identity and deliver quality, performance products to their targeted audience.
6. Quality and Fit
Merch:
Since merch is mass-produced, it typically uses standard sizes and materials. While some merch items are made with good fabrics, many prioritise affordability over durability. The fit may not be perfect for every individual, as it’s designed to accommodate a wide range of body types and end uses.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke sportswear clothing is synonymous with superior quality and an impeccable fit. The garments are tailored to the brands exact measurements, ensuring comfort and style. High-quality performance materials are chosen to match the athletes requirements, and the construction techniques used often exceed industry standards.
7. Purpose and Emotional Value
Merch:
The purpose of merch is often symbolic. It represents a connection to a team, event, or person. For example, wearing a concert t-shirt may remind someone of a memorable experience, while branded corporate merch can foster a sense of belonging among employees or customers. Merch often has a sentimental or promotional value rather than a functional one.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke activewear apparel is developed to perform and deliver the values of the brand. Each garment needs to deliver a level of quality and performance the athlete requires. Features are considered and designed to help the athlete perform. Fabrics and trims are seleced to deliver the right level of performance too.
8. Environmental Impact
Merch:
Mass production of merch can have a considerable environmental impact, especially when fast fashion practices are involved. Overproduction, waste, and the use of synthetic materials contribute to environmental concerns. Transparency isn’t usually offered on merch so customers have no idea who made it, what they were paid and if the manufacturing process and practices were ethical or sustainable.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke Sportswear is inherently more sustainable, as it is made-to-order and reduces waste. The focus on quality and durability means that bespoke garments have a much longer lifespan, encouraging consumers to buy less but better. Many ethical and sustainable focused brands also source fabrics responsibly and prioritise eco-friendly practices.
If you need to source sustainable fabrics, please see our downloadable guide.
9. Branding and Marketing
Merch:
Merch serves as a branding tool. It helps organisations, teams and groups expand their reach and visibility. For example, a tech company might distribute branded t-shirts at a conference, or a YouTuber might sell merchandise to strengthen their community. Merch often features prominent logos, slogans, or artwork that makes it easily identifiable.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke activewear is not all about branding; it’s about the athlete. While some brands may have signature styles or techniques, the final product is designed to reflect the athlete’s requirements rather than solely promote their brand.
The product also needs to deliver on the brands values in terms of function, sustainability, ethics, performance and quality.
10. Availability and Accessibility
Merch:
Merch is widely available through online stores, retail outlets, and events. It is designed to be accessible to a large audience, both in terms of price and availability. Merch can often be purchased with minimal effort, and inventory is usually plentiful with low MOQ’s.
Bespoke Apparel:
Bespoke activewear is completely different and starts life as a concept or idea. This needs to be worked up to a design and then a tech pack and samples need to be fitted and tested to make sure the garment delivers.
Production volumes need to align to the supply chain. This includes the MOQ of fabrics, trims and components as well as the factory that will stitch the garment together. This can often equate to ‘000’s of garments.
At Blue Associates Sportswear , we have negotiated much lower MOQ’s that start at 150 pieces per colourway.
Conclusion
The differences between merch and bespoke apparel lie in their purpose, production, audience, and overall value. Merch is about connection, branding, and affordability, designed for mass appeal and often tied to a specific identity or cause. Bespoke activewear apparel, on the other hand, is a celebration of performance, brand values, quality, features, fit and finish that athletes expect from the brand they choose for their kit.
Both merch and bespoke apparel have their place in the fashion ecosystem. While merch allows people to express their affiliations and support their favourite team or artists, bespoke activewear clothing offers athletes with quality kit that will deliver in terms of performance and features.
If you are looking to start a brand or want to produce low MOQ activewear, then please get in touch.
