How to make Lululemon’s famous leggings. 8 Top tips.

Lululemon’s famous leggings are a continual discussion at Blue Associates Sportswear, with one of the most common requests by our start-up clients is “How do we create a legging that is as good as Lululemon’s”.

Creating leggings with the same quality, comfort, and performance as Lululemon’s requires a VERY deep dive into fabric technology, design, and manufacturing techniques.

Follow the steps below, you can produce leggings that feel luxurious, look stylish, and perform well for various activities, from yoga to high-impact workouts.

1. The Basics: What Makes Lululemon Leggings Unique?

Lululemon leggings stand out due to their fabric quality, meticulous design, and attention to comfort. Known for their signature stretch, softness, and durability, Lululemon leggings feel almost like a “second skin.” These legging took years to develop to what they sell now with continual development and tweaking until they achieve perfection.

Some unique elements include:

• Fabric Innovation: Lululemon’s proprietary fabrics, such as Luon, Nulu, and Everlux, offer different textures, levels of support, and breathability.
• Four-Way Stretch: This feature allows leggings to stretch in all directions, providing greater freedom of movement.
• Moisture-Wicking: Lululemon fabrics are often moisture-wicking, which helps keep users dry during intense workouts.
• Flatlock Seams: Minimises friction, reducing the chance of chafing, and increases comfort.
• Fit and Style: Thoughtfully placed seams and waistbands that avoid “muffin top” are just some of the design choices Lululemon uses to ensure a flattering fit for various body shapes.

To replicate Lululemon’s leggings signature look and feel, it’s essential to follow these guiding principles.

2. Choosing the Right Fabric

Selecting the perfect fabric is crucial when making leggings that resemble Lululemon’s. Here are some popular options that resemble Lululemon’s fabric types:

• Polyester-Spandex Blend: This is the most common material for leggings because of its stretch, durability, and ability to retain colour. Look for a high percentage of spandex (around 20%) for flexibility and make sure the power of the spandex is super strong. Using low grade spandex won’t feel the same as high power apandex.
• Nylon-Spandex Blend: Nylon-based fabrics offer a softer and smoother texture compared to polyester. Nylon also tends to be more durable and resistant to pilling.
• Performance Fabrics: Seek out performance materials that aid breathability, softness, pilling, durability and care.
• Squatproof: Event Lululemon got this wrong and produced leggings that were see through. It cost them dearly and now Squat proof is a known term within the industry. Make sure your leggings are 1005 squat proof.

Fabric weight also plays a big role in the overall comfort and performance of the leggings. Lightweight fabrics (around 200gsm) are great for low-impact workouts or lounging, while medium-weight fabrics (around 250gsm) provide better support for more intense workouts.

3. Developing the Right Fit and Pattern

The fit of Lululemon leggings is known for being supportive, flattering, and sculpting. Here’s how to design your pattern:

1. Waistband: A high-rise waistband with a slightly curved fit at the top can prevent the leggings from sliding down or creating a muffin top. Many Lululemon leggings have a reinforced waistband with a hidden pocket for keys or cards.
2. Length: Lululemon leggings come in various lengths – from ankle-length to full-length. A 7/8 length (sitting just above the ankle) is a popular choice, offering coverage without feeling restrictive.
3. Gusset: The gusset is a small triangular or diamond-shaped piece of fabric sewn into the crotch area. Adding a gusset prevents camel toe and allows for greater freedom of movement.
4. Panels and Seams: Design the leggings with carefully placed seams and panels to avoid irritation during movement. For a smoother look, avoid placing seams on high-friction areas.
5. Pattern: To create a pattern, don’t believe it’s as simple as measuring a lululemon legging and press copy and paste. The fabric you use will have a big effect on the fit and comfort and you need to take this into consideration when cutting the pattern.

4. Cutting and Preparing the Fabric

Once the pattern is ready, it’s time to cut and prepare the fabric:

1. Lay Out the Fabric: Lay the fabric flat on a cutting table. Make sure the fabric has been relaxed first otherwise it will relax after you cut the fabric and won’t fit as you intend. Ensure the grain direction (up and down) is consistent with the pattern’s instructions. Most activewear fabrics stretch more in one direction, so ensure you align the pattern pieces to optimise this.
2. Pin and Cut: Use pins or pattern weights to keep the pattern pieces in place. Carefully cut each piece with a rotary cutter or sharp fabric scissors.
3. Serge the Edges: To avoid fraying, serge the edges of the fabric. Using a serger helps give leggings that clean, professional look and increases durability.

5. Sewing Techniques

Now that the fabric is cut, it’s time to sew. Here are the steps to achieve a professional finish:

1. Use the Right Thread and Needle: Select a strong polyester thread with some elasticity to handle the stretch in the fabric. Use a ballpoint needle or a stretch needle (size 75/11 or 80/12), which is less likely to damage stretchy fabrics.
2. Flatlock or Overlock Stitching: For a durable and flat seam, use a flatlock or overlock stitch, which allows the fabric to stretch without tearing the stitches. If a flatlock machine isn’t available, a zigzag stitch or stretch stitch on a standard sewing machine works as well.
3. Sew the Gusset First: Start by sewing the gusset into the crotch area, as it provides a more tailored fit and helps prevent tearing during movement.
4. Assemble the Legs: Sew the inner leg seams first, then the outer seams. Stitch carefully, and make sure to keep the fabric taut as you sew to prevent puckering.
5. Attach the Waistband: Fold the waistband and attach it to the top of the leggings. Consider inserting an elastic band within the waistband for extra support, similar to Lululemon’s Align leggings.
6. Finishing Touches: Topstitch along the waistband to keep the elastic from twisting and to give it a polished look.

6. Quality Testing and Control

Creating high-quality leggings involves testing for comfort, durability, and performance:

1. Stretch and Recovery: After sewing, stretch the leggings in various directions to ensure they maintain shape and integrity. Good fabric should have strong “recovery,” meaning it bounces back to its original shape without stretching out. This is all down to the fabric you selected and is the key to making the perfect legging.
2. Moisture-Wicking: Spray a small amount of water onto the fabric and observe whether it absorbs quickly. This is key for moisture-wicking fabrics to keep wearers dry.
3. Abrasion Testing: Rub a small, inconspicuous section of the leggings together to check for pilling or abrasion. High-quality leggings should resist pilling even after multiple uses.
4. Comfort Fit Test: Try on the leggings to ensure they feel comfortable around the waist, hips, and legs. Walk, squat, and stretch to test for any slipping or discomfort.

7. Design Customisation

Consider these final steps for adding a personal touch or brand customisation:

1. Add Branding or Logos: If you’re making these for your brand, a logo printed or sewn onto the waistband or leg can give a professional look. Use a heat-press vinyl or embroidery. Make sure the design works with the fabric and doesn’t hinder the stretch of the fabric.
2. Optional Pockets: Many people appreciate leggings with side or hidden pockets. You can add a small zippered pocket to the waistband for keys or a phone pocket along the thigh.
3. Custom Prints: Look into dye-sublimation printing if you want custom patterns or colours. This method works well for synthetic fabrics like polyester and ensures the colours don’t fade.
4. Reflective Details: For an athletic touch, add reflective strips to the calves or thighs for safety during low-light activities. Make sure these are bonded well so they don’t peel off after wear and washing.

8. Scaling Up Production

If you’re planning to produce these leggings on a larger scale, consider these tips:

• Sourcing Fabric in Bulk: Research suppliers that offer high-quality fabric in bulk. Look for reliable suppliers that specialise in quality, performance activewear textiles.
• Standardising Patterns: Develop standard sizes to streamline production. With standardised patterns, you can cut multiple pieces at once and save fabric with the right lay. The factory you select will help with this.
• Using Industrial Machines: Industrial-grade sewing machines, sergers, and flatlock machines are faster and more durable than home machines, essential for mass production.
• Quality Control at Each Step: Inspect each pair at multiple stages – cutting, sewing, and finishing. This ensures consistency and reduces the likelihood of defective products. A good quality factory will have inline AQL systems in place to make sure the quality is good along the line.

Replicating the quality and comfort of Lululemon leggings is an ambitious goal that requires attention to detail in fabric selection, pattern design, and construction techniques. With patience and practice, you can create leggings that are not only functional and durable but also stylish and comfortable. Whether for personal use or starting your brand, these steps can help you make leggings that people love to wear – embodying that coveted combination of stretch, support, and style.

Watch the history of LuluLemon by founder Chip Wilson

Because we get asked so much to produce the same quality at Lululemon leggings, we have sourced and developed fabrics that replicate close to the power, stretch and comfort of Lululemon. If you need help developing a legging that matches Lululemon’s, then please get in touch.